What is Fine Dining in 2010?

I would like to start an open forum debate as to what are the criteria for being a Michelin Star worthy establishment in Chicago. For as long as any living chef can remember, The Michelin Guide to dining has been the authority when it comes to defining Haut Cuisine. Since coming to the United States, Michelin has had to, dare I say it, update their rating system to accommodate the wild wild west of New American Cuisine. This has outraged many of the old guard back in Europe who have dedicated their whole life in pursuit of the "10 ton" third star. Hundreds of thousands of Euros have been spent on bone china, crystal and white alba truffles in an effort to please Michelin's reviewers. Until recently this plan has worked if you were patient enough to see it through. Arguably the greatest living chef today, Joel Robuchon, has created something very special in his L'Atelier concepts. They are not affordable per se, but do offer a more comfortable and relaxed dining experience then say La Table. La Table has 3 stars (The highest award) while L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon has 2 stars. Since less then 1% of the fine dining world gets even a single star, 2 is an amazing accomplishment on its own. Here lies perhaps the answer as to what secret judging criteria is at hand. Chefs have speculated on what it takes to get the third star since the guide launched over 50 years ago. Only Michelin knows for sure and they reserve the right to update their criteria should they need to.

A few months ago, Michelin announced, to an eager room of Chicago chef, that they will be publishing a guide to Chicago. Only the third American city to have a guide. NYC and San Francisco, once the leading cities in America, got a welcome head start. Now it's our turn and everyone is buzzing as to who will get some stars. Any stars. The obvious list of Tru, Alinea, Trotters, Avenues, Schwa, and Moto head up the list. But what about our own l'Ateliers de Chicago; Blackbird, Avec, Kith and Kin, Longman and Eagle, and Graham Elliot? Any of my colleagues at the later named shops would be thrilled to have a single star let alone two. Let’s face it, Chicago restaurants are not as glamorous as our NYCs or Paris counterparts. We have our own laid back Midwestern vibe working for us. Will Michelin understand this or dismiss us all together? My guess is if they have decided to publish a book on Chicago, they have already decided that there are enough star worthy establishments in Chicago to warrant such.

After meeting with designers all week, we have collectivity decided to "dial up" our decor in hopes of being in the running for a star. I could not bear the reality that my restaurant Gabba Gabba Hey was DQed from the running because we didn't measure up with the ambiance. I have no doubt our cuisine will be revolutionary and our staff the finest in town so we are sinking a few more thousands into our look in hopes of being the next 2 star sensation in the greatest food town in America.